Incredibly popular across West Africa, the dish can vary from cook to cook and place to place, but, for Yewande Komolafe, it’s a quick link to the past.
Yewande Komolafe captures the Nigerian city’s essence — both rich and complex — in crispy bean fritters, richly infused chicken and rice, and jammy tomato breakfast eggs.
Two years ago, our cooking columnist Yewande Komolafe woke from a coma and soon learned her body would be profoundly altered. She recounts her journey back to the kitchen, and to herself.