newyorker.com
Oyster Bar aside, the anticipation of delicious food and pleasing ambience is not usually accompanied by thinking, “Ah, the train station.” Yet in Switzerland, from Bern to Basel to Zurich, some popular restaurants have been housed in der Bahnhof. At the Swiss bistro Café Select, in Nolita, the latest venture of the restaurateur Serge Becker—a partner at La Esquina, the taco stand/café/secret subterranean tequila den across the street—there is an unmistakable air of European metropolitanism. The…
over 15 years ago
newyorker.com
The Public Theatre announced that Anne Hathaway will play Viola, the cross-dressing twin heroine of “Twelfth Night,” directed by Daniel Sullivan, in a Shakespeare in the Park production beginning June 9th. Incidentally, William Shakespeare married a woman named Anne Hathaway, when he was eighteen and she was twenty-six; she was three months pregnant at the time. They had three children (an older girl and a set of twins, a boy and a girl) and remained together until Shakespeare’s death, in 1616,…
over 15 years ago
newyorker.com
This year, Off Broadway (and Off Off Broadway) theatre yielded myriad pleasures, as well as some pain, from reconceived classics to star-driven spectacles to truly heart-wrenching dramas to elaborately offbeat displays of inventiveness. The bar was set high by several up-and-coming companies, and more than a few lesser-known writers and directors broke out with remarkable work. We culled the favorites of several Goings On About Town contributors; some shows, such as “Our Town,” “Telephone,” “Thi…
over 14 years ago
newyorker.com
A waiter, sporting a jaunty fedora, attempted to explain the restaurant’s name. “Rubirosa? He was from Europe. Italy, I think. I heard he was this man who used to be a playboy and he had sex with everyone, and then he became a librarian.” After checking with the bartender on the facts, he returned. “He was Dominican! He was some badass cool playboy. And this pepper grinder was named after him”—he pulled out a wooden two-footer. “You can imagine why.” Indeed. Porfirio Rubirosa, the infamous midce…
over 13 years ago
newyorker.com
Jody Williams, formerly the chef of Gottino and Morandi, has gone Gallic with Buvette, a wine-and-small-plates establishment in a cozy sliver of a space that once housed the bare-bones Southern institution the Pink Tea Cup. “This used to be such a dump,” a seasoned West Village local announced one evening, sipping rosé at the elegant marble bar, which provides much of the seating. “But people loved it,” replied a bartender in suspenders and a page-boy cap, who was moonlighting as a sommelier, fr…
over 12 years ago
newyorker.com
Shauna Lyon visits a new deep-dish establishment in SoHo.
over 9 years ago
newyorker.com
An ambitious Mexican restaurant in the East Village serves watermelon margaritas and crab to be cracked at the table.
almost 9 years ago
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The Tribeca restaurant Little Park serves tomatillos that taste like candy, but the chef Andrew Carmellini does more than vegetables.
over 8 years ago
newyorker.com
Wildair follows the affordable-tasting-menu mecca Contra. There’s no mistaking the lineage, but oddities abound.
over 8 years ago
newyorker.com
Whether crisped in beer batter or simply seared, the fish at this beachy Nolita canteen is sustainable and seasonal.
over 8 years ago
newyorker.com
There are no truffles or Thai chilies. No show. Just calm, quiet omakase.
over 8 years ago
newyorker.com
At King, every item on the short menu, which changes daily, seems to have ancient roots, and may possibly be an ideal version of itself.
about 7 years ago
newyorker.com
On a recent night around six, as bombastic classical music hinted at the drama to come, Shani himself, in the midst of several other chefs, worked in the open kitchen. It’s an excellent show for the ten-seat counter, along which piles of food provide a barrier of sorts—peak strawberries, figs, giant scallions, crab legs. The “Display only” sign, scrawled in what looks like purple lipstick, doesn’t apply to the chefs, who carve off octopus tentacles and grab resting racks of ribs within sneezing…
almost 5 years ago
newyorker.com
The chef Jeremy Salamon’s grandmothers provide inspiration for impeccable pastries and exceptionally thoughtful dishes at this breakfast-and-lunch counter-service spot in Crown Heights.
over 2 years ago
newyorker.com
At his East Village restaurant, the chef Jeff Miller serves exquisite dishes that might involve striped bass from Bushwick and soy sauce made by a guy named Bob in Mystic, Connecticut.
over 2 years ago
newyorker.com
William Djuric, who grew up in New York, opened a fast-casual restaurant in the West Village, serving warming goulash, irresistible burek, and ideal krofne.
about 1 year ago
newyorker.com
For Lee, Nowon was hard-won, though rather meteorically. In 2017, the chef, who had cooked his way up the ladder for Floyd Cardoz, Masaharu Morimoto, and Dale Talde, landed an executive-chef position at Hotel 50 Bowery’s Rice & Gold. He hadn’t yet turned thirty. “I was too comfortable,” he told me. “I need to be in the fire.” So he quit, and, in April, 2019, started a pop-up in the East Village’s Black Emperor bar, selling burgers, chopped-cheese rice cakes, fried chicken. “I was a one-man show,…
8 months ago
newyorker.com
Fong On has been in Eng’s family since the original opened on Mott Street, in 1933; for decades, it sold tofu up and down the Eastern Seaboard, “because there weren’t many manufacturers,” Eng told me. “Even Philadelphia didn’t have their own tofu.” But Asian communities—Chinese in particular—as they grew, started making their own, and business slowed; by 2017, Eng’s brother closed the shop’s doors. Eng, the fifth son, had cycled through many artistic pursuits—from rock guitarist to photographer…
7 months ago
newyorker.com
In early June, when smoke from Canadian wildfires engulfed New York City in an otherworldly orange haze, Clark Hodgin set out to capture the eerie scene, for Carolyn Kormann’s first-person dispatch. Hodgin’s collection of uncannily beautiful images of iconic spots includes one in Central Park, where kids who have taken to the irresistible boulders appear frozen in amber, a cell phone in hand, backpacks and all. The image underlines the strangeness of that dystopian moment, which was surreal and…
5 months ago
newyorker.com
Kampimarn—who grew up in Udon Thani, in northeast Thailand, and came to the U.S. thirteen years ago—once cooked at the highly praised Somtum Der, in Red Hook, but it was with the pre-service family meals that he auditioned his recipes; these became the basis for the menu at UnTable. The appetizer Yum Samgler, which evokes a jaunty fruit ceviche, is more poignant with a primer: Yum refers to cold salad, in this case a refreshing medley of cherry tomato, grapes, fig, strawberry, and avocado, and S…
5 months ago
newyorker.com
It’s clear that Aguilar values beauty and craftsmanship, from the clean design of the pristine cooking stations to the handsome ceramic and wooden serving pieces and the meticulous plating. If you sit at the main, black-quartz bar (the seats are all barstools, and the best face the long, open galley kitchen), you can watch the ballet of chefs as one of them—often Aguilar himself—crafts, say, a perfect crab tostada, piling fresh jumbo lump meat with serrano pepper, avocado crema, and copious lime…
about 2 months ago
