newyorker.com
For Lee, Nowon was hard-won, though rather meteorically. In 2017, the chef, who had cooked his way up the ladder for Floyd Cardoz, Masaharu Morimoto, and Dale Talde, landed an executive-chef position at Hotel 50 Bowery’s Rice & Gold. He hadn’t yet turned thirty. “I was too comfortable,” he told me. “I need to be in the fire.” So he quit, and, in April, 2019, started a pop-up in the East Village’s Black Emperor bar, selling burgers, chopped-cheese rice cakes, fried chicken. “I was a one-man show,…
about 1 year ago