newyorker.com
Kampimarn—who grew up in Udon Thani, in northeast Thailand, and came to the U.S. thirteen years ago—once cooked at the highly praised Somtum Der, in Red Hook, but it was with the pre-service family meals that he auditioned his recipes; these became the basis for the menu at UnTable. The appetizer Yum Samgler, which evokes a jaunty fruit ceviche, is more poignant with a primer: Yum refers to cold salad, in this case a refreshing medley of cherry tomato, grapes, fig, strawberry, and avocado, and S…
over 1 year ago