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Craig LaBan

Craig LaBan

Restaurant Critic & Drink Columnist at The Philadelphia Inquirer

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Influence score
48
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Location
United States
Languages
  • English
Covering topics
  • Beverages
  • Food

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Recent Articles

inquirer.com

The Morris House is a restaurant Bermuda Triangle. Can the new Soufiane finally break the curse?

The secluded garden and historic aura of the Morris House craves a distinct menu. But translating the Moroccan-French magic of the new operators' tiny cafe to this much larger space hasn't been easy.
inquirer.com

What’s in a pepper pot? Black chefs gather to celebrate, revive, an...

In a year full of historical reflections for America's 250th anniversary, the time is ripe to consider an iconic Philadelphia soup that has nearly disappeared — and attempt to revive it.
inquirer.com

The Blue Warbler is Chestnut Hill’s most intriguing restaurant in y...

Fred Mogul left journalism to pursue a lifelong dream of opening a restaurant. The quirky but charming result, with a globe-hopping meat-free menu, may be just what Chestnut Hill needs.
inquirer.com

All-you-can-eat wagyu at Ardmore’s Ogyu proves there can be too muc...

Ardmore's new all-you-can-eat wagyu experience is a timed 90-minute eating sprint. But does it celebrate the world's most coveted beef, or raise more questions about its worth?
inquirer.com

The best thing Craig LaBan ate this week: Vietnamese fried chicken ...

The soups are fantastic at this family-run Vietnamese corner restaurant in deep South Philadelphia. But the fried chicken platter alone is worth the trip.
inquirer.com

Strong drinks and small plates set BAR ilu and Grace & Proper apart...

Philly’s bar scene is now in its grazing phase, with curated drink menus and minimalist menus with character. Spanish tapas and Portuguese bifana sandwiches are a natural fit.
inquirer.com

Mr. Edison is flashy and ambitious. Too bad the cooking and service...

A soaring $10 million space in the historic Bellevue, including a Ferris wheel for high-end liquor, brings retro grandeur to Walnut and Broad. If only the food lived up to the ambition.
inquirer.com

Waltz feels like an old haunt, but this polished Italian restaurant...

This newcomer from the Dougherty family is a date-night destination sparked by wood-fired pizzas, fresh pastas, and crab cakes in a rehabbed building that feels like a vintage South Philly tavern.
inquirer.com

Side Eye, an affordable bistro in Queen Village, has a great concep...

The early stumbles and inconsistent cooking have begun to show signs of improvement at this successor to Bistrot La Minette. More vegetable-forward dishes and warmer service have made a difference.
inquirer.com

Barclay Pies in Cherry Hill sets a new standard for gluten-free piz...

The Detroit-style gluten-free pies are so good at this Cherry Hill pizzeria, even those who don't need to avoid gluten love it. “There’s a market need for a pizzeria that was truly inclusive.”
inquirer.com

The best thing Craig LaBan ate this week: Pasta at Center City West...

The Inquirer critic revisited Porcini on Sansom Street and found its pioneering Italian-BYOB spark still burns bright. “It’s just like Big Night here,” the chef said.