Caroline Hatchett

Digging into an old gardening tenet

A peek inside the return of a beloved steakhouse

The waitstaff stands in formation, each balancing a tray with a dozen or so pink shooters. Someone cranks up the late-aughts party anthem “Shots,” and diners put down their forks. Servers sashay through the room, distributing the fruity, spiked elixir. One climbs up on a bussing station and fist-pumps as her table tips back their drinks. It’s Sunday brunch at Bacon Bitch, and everyone is here to party.Welcome to a weird and wild subgenre of the American restaurant, where “bitch” is the brand ide…